The Alps are more commonly associated with skiing, but we almost always go out of season and this October we struck gold – the glorious autumn colours of the beech woods and maples, set against the dark green of the conifers, were at their best against skies of deep azure blue and the sunshine was still warm.
The Chaîne des Aravis are, as the name suggests, a chain of mountains located in the Haute Savoie, an hour south of Geneva, across the border in France. The most famous town in this region is the beautiful medieval town of Annecy, known as the Venice of the Alps because of its canals. We have a chalet in La Clusaz, which is 30 minutes further south. Although principally a ski resort, the town offers year-round activities and despite some of the restaurants and shops being seasonal, there are always just enough open to keep us going (shout out to Le Bélier in La Clusaz and Lo Garajo in Manigod). We rather like the peaceful vibe and feeling that we are rubbing along with the locals.
We discovered this region 20 years ago, by chance, on our honeymoon, and fell for its low-key charm and friendly people. In the spring, the wild-flowers that cover the alpine pastures are quite beautiful and round every corner is a breathtaking view. We often follow a herd of cows being walked up to the high pastures, after a long winter in the barns, their bells ringing round the valley. You can feel their excitement to be released onto a pasture of herbs that looks good enough for us to eat. It’s hard not to be moved by the bravery of the patou (large white dog) that guards the flocks of sheep all day and all night on the mountain to keep any predator at bay. It all stirs something in the soul and lifts our spirits and restores us.
The network of well signposted walks allows you to choose long or short routes from all the local villages and towns, such as Les Confins, Le Grand Bornand and Manigod or further afield around Thones, Giettaz, and Châtillon. We usually pack a picnic and spend most of the day out on the mountain. In the summer time, a few of the lifts are open, especially at the weekends, as mountain biking is now so popular, but it is often preferable to plan your route as a circular one in order to get back to your car. Public transport isn’t brilliant off season, though they are beginning to improve things as they are realising the value of the summer visitor and this will only increase as global warming makes some more traditional summer holiday destinations become almost unbearably hot.
Part of the joy of being in this region are the produits regionneaux, of which they are very proud. The local cheeses, made from the beautiful Abondance cows that you see and hear in the alpine pastures, are most famously, reblochon, abondance, tomme de Savoie and comte. We are particularly fond of the local jam made from wild myrtille berries collected from the surrounding hills where you might also see, though more likely hear, a marmot. Think a small beaver with goofy teeth.
If we’re there for an extended period, Les Aravis is brilliantly located for exploring other regions of France for a couple of nights, which we have often done. Highlights have been the Jura, Alsace-Lorraine, the Camargue, Lyon, Burgundy and Dijon. If you had time you could easily explore Marseille or even venture into northern Italy; Turin or Milan which is under 5 hours drive. La Clusaz is a mid level family ski town, but you can easily get to Chamonix or Megeve which are more famous resorts, if you wanted to have a more challenging day’s skiing. However, our greatest joy is to visit out of the winter season and to enjoy the amazing alpine walks
